From the window of our little hotel in Amiens we have an amazing close up view of 13th century Amiens Cathedral, which is just across the road. We have been incredibly lucky with our weather this holiday and the gothic cathedral, complete with flying buttresses and gargoyles, is set against a cloudless blue sky.
Our charmingly quirky hotel used to be a priory and has a disturbingly uneven staircase and wooden beams sloping everywhere. It is run by the very helpful Thibaud, who gave us useful advice on things to do and places to eat. His first recommendation was of course to visit the cathedral. He asked if we had ever visited Notre Dame in Paris. When we replied in the affirmative he informed us proudly that two Notre Dames could fit inside Amiens Cathedral.
When we visited it on Tuesday afternoon we were not disappointed; it is not only lofty and spacious but bright too, with light streaming in through the stained glass windows. Painted sculptures depict biblical scenes and there are plenty of statues, chapels and paintings. The outside facade is very imposing with a multitude of statues of kings and saints.
We then went on a very unusual boat trip; the Hortillonages. Right in the centre of Amiens, beside the River Somme, there is a network of small canals and islands, started by the Romans and developed in the Middle Ages by draining marshes in order to grow vegetables. It is truly amazing that this peaceful area, only accessible by boat, exists in the middle of a bustling city. Our forty minute boat trip was a pleasure and Ewan pointed out that it was the location for the boat trip in the first part of Sebastian Faulks’ novel Birdsong.
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