Haunted Pub

Ally, Cat, James and I decided to go out for lunch yesterday on the spur of the moment, and Ally suggested the Applebank Inn on the outskirts of Larkhall. When we arrived we had a lovely pub lunch, and also found the pub positively festooned with Halloween decorations. There were spooky 3D photos on the walls, fake cobwebs everywhere, a giant inflatable spider outside, and ghoulish blood-stained figures hanging beside the front door. One of the bartenders told us that the Applebank Inn is in fact haunted! He said that it's three hundred years old and among many strange happenings, is particularly haunted by the mysterious Black Lady. Lunch however was sadly lacking in paranormal activities and afterwards we went for a wee walk up to the viaduct in the Autumn sunshine.

A nice end to the holiday!

And so goodbye to Washington DC. We took the train back to New York on Saturday afternoon after a last visit in the morning to the Museum of Air and Space. Yes that was our third visit! The streets of Washington were cooler than the last few days but it was lovely and sunny; I felt sad to be leaving this beautiful city. The start of our train journey was delayed a bit because of "police activity" on the track, then there was a bit of confusion and quite a few tears just after leaving Baltimore because two girls hadn't managed to get off the train on time, and yet another two young people had got on the train by mistake thinking that it was going to DC! A train conductor appeared and led the distressed group away with him. 

We relaxed, watched the scenery and read our books during the three hour journey. The next leg of our trip to JFK airport via Jamaica (in Queens not the Caribbean!) and the AirTrain to JFK was a bit of a slog, but there were no delays and eventually we arrived at the British Airways lounge in Terminal 7.

To my surprise and delight we had been upgraded to Business Class, and a whole new world of pleasure opened up for me! We were directed to "pre-flight dining" which was in a separate area of the lounge; this means that you have already eaten your meal before your overnight flight, therefore you can settle down to sleep on the flight more quickly. On the flight James and I had our own sleeping areas beside each other, with chairs that go down completely flat and connects with a fold down footstools to become beds! After surreptitiously taking a couple of photos and having lovely cup of tea we snuggled down to sleep. It was great, so comfy! 

Friday - Memorials and Museums

On our last full day in Washington we decided to walk around the memorials and monuments that we haven't yet seen in the morning, and then head to a couple of museums in the afternoon. The unseasonably hot weather was due to end in the afternoon so we thought that we would do the outdoorsy bit in the morning. 

We took the Metro to Smithsonian and noticed that we had the most upbeat conductor in the world! As well as announcing the stations in a very enthusiastic manner, he kept shouting "it's Friiiii-day!"

We then proceeded to circumnavigate the tidal basin in a leisurely fashion. I won't make a list of all the memorials that we saw, but it was interesting to see how different they were in style. The Jefferson Memorial was very imposing, however I noticed that unlike Lincoln sitting relaxed in his big chair, Jefferson was standing up for all eternity. I mentioned to James that if there is ever a statue to be built of me, I would like to be sitting down. James assured me that he will design a statue that has me lying on a couch surrounded by sweetie papers with a television remote control in one hand and my phone in the other, and a couple of cats lounging around nearby! 

It was a most beautiful morning with not a cloud in the sky and at the wee George Mason memorial there was a gorgeous flower garden which was full of butterflies. Round at the Franklin D Roosevelt memorial I particularly liked the statue of his wee Westie dog. We arrived back at the World War II memorial with its lovely fountains and then past the Washington Monument towards the Smithsonian museums.

By this time it was 2 pm and hotter than ever so we had a quick but tasty lunch in the cafeteria of The Museum of American History. Our timing couldn't have been better - just as we sat down the weather finally broke and torrential rain started lashing down outside. We had a look round the museum. It was interesting in parts - it was good to see the original flag that flew over Fort McHenry in Baltimore during the heavy bombardment by the British in September 1814. When it was still flying the next morning Francis Scott Key saw it and was inspired to write a poem beginning:

"O say can you see, by the dawn's early light,

What so proudly we hailed at the twilight's last gleaming,
Whose broad stripes and bright stars through the perilous fight,

O'er the ramparts we watched, were so gallantly streaming?"

which of course became the song "The Star Spangled Banner" and eventually America's National Anthem.  

And I did enjoy seeing Judy Garland's ruby slippers from The Wizard of Oz. But I felt that the museum was a bit of a jumble and could have done with some stronger historical links and themes.

When we went outside the rain had stopped and the sun was back out; it was distinctly cooler though, which was a relief. We went to the Museum of Natural History briefly and then back to the Museum of Air and Space for an hour before it closed.

In the evening we strolled along M Street to bustling Georgetown and had an absolutely fantastic meal in Clyde's, which was a sort of mix of French and American cooking. It was by far the best meal that we have had all week (first equal with our Brunch in the Rockefeller Centre!)

Thursday - Dulles Airport, Arlington Cemetery and the Lincoln Memorial

On Thursday morning we set off nice and sharp because we were on a mission to visit the National Air and Space Museum's Annex at Washington's Dulles Airport. So we took the metro from Foggy Bottom to Rosslyn, then a bus to Dulles airport, and finally a shuttle bus to the Museum. It took about an hour and a half. I had expected a couple of dusty old hangars full of planes so I was very gratified to find a smart modern museum with plenty of restrooms, a cafeteria and a shop. It was indeed full of planes though! There was a Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird, a Concorde, the Space Shuttle Discovery, 

There was Enola Gay, the Boeing B-29 Superfortress which was used to drop the nuclear bomb on Hiroshima, and an F14 Tomcat which is the kind of plane that Maverick and Goose flew in Top Gun. And many, many more! James was the happiest boy in the world! 

We returned to Washington via the bus and metro, then changed lines and went to Arlington Cemetery. It was a very warm and sunny afternoon and the white of the military graves contrasted with the warm rust reds and oranges of the autumn leaves on the trees. Washington was spread out below the cemetery and the whole atmosphere was muted and peaceful. There were many military graves, and the John F Kennedy and his wife Jackie and two of their babies were buried on their own terrace with an eternal flame. 

We exited the cemetery and walked out along the broad driveway and across the Arlington Memorial Bridge over the Potomac River. The joggers of Washington were out in force on this very fine evening, and as we paused on a wide set of steps overlooking the river we noticed some joggers running up and down the steps again and again, as well as a man with a glistening torso doing all sorts of complicated sit-ups at the top of the steps. This is the city of fitness!

We then crossed the roundabout to the Lincoln memorial. It's huge with wide steps leading up to a covered area where giant Lincoln sits on his chair looking up the Reflecting Pool towards the Capitol in the distance. James realised that where we were sitting on the steps was just where Martin Luther King gave his "I have a dream" speech in August 1963.

It was getting dark by the time we reached the Vietnam memorial across the plaza; all those names of such young people, it was very sad. 

We had dinner at Nick's restaurant at Washington harbour; it was amazing to be sitting outside without even needing jackets on such a warm evening in late October.

Wednesday in Washington

This morning we continued our tour of Washington by taking the metro from Foggy Bottom to Capitol South, the plan being to spend the morning making our way along the National Mall towards the Washington Monument. Needless to say we got distracted on the way and our morning plan ended up taking all day!

Our first unscheduled visit was to the Library of Congress. It looked amazing from the outside so we popped in only to find that it was even more amazing inside! It was stunningly beautiful with marble staircases, statues, and little homilies about learning painted high on the walls. We went up to the gallery of the Reading Room which looked like the kind of place where I would like to spend many happy hours. We also saw the Jefferson library. In 1814 the naughty British burned down the Capitol and also the 3,000-volume Library of Congress before going over to the White House, eating dinner (which the President and his wife had abandoned as they fled), and then burning that down too. The Americans were very cross about this and, from the number of times it was referred to during our visits today, they still haven't got over it!  Thomas Jefferson offered to sell Congress his personal library which was actually about three times the size of what they had before.  Unfortunately a lot of it got burned in another fire - accidental this time! For me, the highlight of the Library of Congress was an exhibition of first editions of famous American books which have had an impact on culture over the last hundred years; it was wonderful.

We then noticed signs to a tunnel that would take us under the road to the Capitol Building. We were a bit peckish so went for a very early lunch in the very smart cafeteria there, before signing up for a tour. It was really interesting and our tour guide, Karen, told us lots of stories about the government and its history. 

For example, under the Capitol there is an empty tomb which was intended for George Washington. However some of his family quite rightly insisted that according to his will he wanted to be buried at his family estate in Virginia, and so the tomb lies empty because the government doesn't want to put anyone else there. We visited the Rotunda which was very impressive with high walls curving to the dome above. The fresco at the top of the dome is spectacular, also the frieze of American history around the wall. Some American presidents and other well known elected officials have lain in state here, on the catafalque (a decorated wooden frame) originally made for Abraham Lincoln. Three civilians have lain in honour here; two Capitol policemen who were killed on duty in 1998 and Rosa Parks. 

Onwards we went along the National Mall, enjoying the views. However we didn't get very far before we saw the National Air and Space Museum. We only intended an initial brief visit to enquire about transport to the Dulles Air and Space Museum which is out at that airport, but of course once we went in we ended up staying until chucking out time at 5.30 pm!  I have seldom seen James so excited as when we arrived, and he was soon completely absorbed in all the exhibits. There was loads to see; it was crammed with lots of different aeroplanes such as the original Wright Flyer 1903, an X15 and a U2. The strange thing was that I found it really interesting too; the information boards were very informative and it was very accessible. 

We emerged back into the sunshine and strolled down nearly to the National Monument before turning off towards the White House to see and photograph the traditional view of it. James found it very amusing that all the Secret Service police wear badges that actually say "Secret Service" - every time he saw one he would say "So who do you work for? Shhhh I can't tell you!"

From there we walked up Philadelphia Avenue towards our hotel, stopping on the way for dinner at the "Founding Farmers" restaurant which Heather and Ewan had recommended to us after their visit to Washington in June. We had to wait quite a while for a table because it was very busy (a good sign!), but we were in a relaxed holiday mood so we were happy to sit at the bar chatting over our day. Dinner was tasty American fare - the portions were massive - and the service was excellent once we finally got a table. When we arrived back at our hotel, tired but happy, we switched on the television for the first time this holiday, in order to watch the final Trump vs. Clinton debate. We haven't watched the other two, but I wanted to see this one because, being in America, there are election posters everywhere and the election feels very imminent. The debate was more interesting than I thought it would be. I have said on my blog before that I am not confident in my political views, however even I could see that Donald Trump was just mud slinging - he seemed completely out of his depth. Interesting times ahead! 

Tuesday - train from NYC to Washington DC

We were super efficient this morning when packing up and checking out of our New York hotel, because we were not sure if the layout of nearby Penn Station and didn't want to be late for our 9.35 am train to Washington DC. As a result we were about half an hour too early, but at least that gave us plenty of time to purchase pastries and coffee from Zaro's for breakfast on the train. I chose a raspberry rugelach which was delicious. When the platform was announced there was a great rush, but James took the cases onto the train while I scouted ahead for seats, which were comfy and spacious. Soon we were on our way to Washington. The three hour train journey was great, down past Philadelphia and Baltimore with views of Chesapeake Bay; the Autumn colours of the trees looked spectacular in the sunshine.

We arrived in Washington to find it very warm - about 28 degrees C - on chatting to some people in a waterfront bar later we found out that this is unusually hot for October here. We checked into our hotel in Foggy Bottom (love it!) then went out and walked along Pennsylvania Avenue towards the centre to get our bearings and see a few sights. I think that Washington definitely has the feel of a capital city; there are of course many government buildings and monuments, and there were lots of suited business people strolling about, chatting. As the afternoon went on, out came the joggers! I have never seen so many of them, especially around the Washington Monument and the World War II Memorial. The Washington Monument is on a slight hill and it was a good vantage point to see the White House and the Capitol Building. 

Later on we went for a drink at the aforementioned waterfront bar at Washington Harbour, which is near our hotel. What an amazing and vibrant place! As well as hundreds more joggers there were lots of people enjoying a drink after work at one of the bars, or going on boats up and down the Potomac River. It was right on the flight path to the airport so of course James was loving watching all the planes coming in low, and there were helicopters buzzing around too, no doubt taking diplomats or dignitaries to the airport. We had dinner sitting outside at a great seafood restaurant called Tony and Joe's and someone at the next table tapped me on the shoulder to point out to us that the International Space Station was passing overhead - it was clearly visible! Very exciting day!

Monday in New York

When I woke up my ankle was still very sore, although not swollen, which I knew was a good sign. We decided all the same to go to a Medical Centre to get it X-rayed. My reasoning was that if it was a sprain I would strap it up and get on with walking around, however if there was a break I didn't want to make it worse and would need further advice. This was all covered by our excellent travel insurance. We took a cab to the recommended medical centre for the X Ray and I was very glad to find that there were no broken bones. The doctor gave me a walking boot to wear, which is a bit clunky but supports the ankle really well. Although we were seen fairly quickly it was nearly midday by the time we were sorted, so we had another brunch! This one was in a wee diner on 42nd Street and it was lovely although not as fancy as yesterday! We then took the metro to World Trade Centre.

I'm sure that I have blogged before that James and I and the children were in New York less than two months before 9/11. We went up to the observation deck of the South tower and right up into the roof, where we could see Manhattan spread out far below us. This is the first time that we have been back to New York after that terrible event fifteen years ago, and we both wanted to go back to the site to pay our respects.

The construction of the new buildings around the site is nearly finished, and the tallest tower, One World Trade Centre, is very striking; its glass walls reflect the sky and the buildings around it. Where the twin towers once stood are two large square pools, with the water cascading down into a deep square hole in the core of each. The names of the dead are etched into the ledges around them.

We visited the 9/11 Memorial Museum which is in two parts; the historical exhibition tells the story of what happened on 9/11 and explores the background leading up to the events and their aftermath, and the memorial exhibition commemorates the lives of the victims. There are lots of artefacts and film clips and it was very moving. 

We felt very sombre when we left and decided to walk down the few blocks to Battery Park and the Staten Island ferry. The day had turned very warm; the display board in the ferry terminal informed us that it was 80 degrees Fahrenheit (about 27 degrees C) so it was nice to be on the deck of the ferry where there was a slight breeze. We were treated to gorgeous views of Manhattans d the Statue of Liberty as we travelled across to Staten Island and back. We  then took the metro back to 34th street where we found a really nice wee restaurant for dinner called the Juniper Bar, the food was simple and delicious. I have loved our visit to New York.

We did not forget that 17th October is David's 21st Birthday; we tried to phone him, texted him, and later he texted us back. Our David is 21 years old!

Sunday in New York Part 3 - the Met, the Movie and the Big Fall

The last time we were in New York was 15 years ago with three little boys aged eleven, seven and five, and we had a great time but very much stuck to the outdoors - Central Park, Statue of Liberty, ferry to Staten Island etc. So Sunday was my first visit to the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art aka the Met. After our magnificent brunch we felt the need for a bit of exercise so we walked the 31 blocks from the Rockefeller Centre to the Met. It is a big museum so we had to choose what we most wanted to see; after consulting our guidebook we spent most of our time wandering around the European paintings. It was very pleasant. I know it's ridiculous to single out a favourite among so many paintings, but for me El Greco's View of Toledo really stood out. I love the vibrant green of the trees and grass, and the light picking out the edges of the grey buildings as they seem to step up the hill, and the amazing threatening sky above it all. Vermeer's Young Woman with a Water Pitcher was also very good; the stiff fabric of her headdress looked so real. And I liked Rembrandt's self portrait which he painted when he was as 54; he looks quite old and tired, it looks very realistic.

Later on we went up to the roof garden of the Met for a rest and a view over Central Park. In fact after our exciting day so far we felt ready for a nap. But with only two and a half days in New York we didn't want to waste a minute, so when we left the museum we turned left into Central Park and strolled across it, stopping again at the Loeb boathouse for a drink - the waitress recognised us from yesterday which made us feel as if we are practically regulars.

As it started to get dark we decided to go to see a movie at the nearby AMC Loews Lincoln Square. We chose Miss Peregrine's Home for Peculiar Children, an engaging but quite dark wee film by Tim Burton with shades of Terry Gilliam's Time Bandits. We both enjoyed it. 

We jumped on a metro back to downtown, and we were just approaching our hotel when disaster struck. As we crossed the road I managed to step awkwardly into a nasty wee hole in the tarmac and down I went like a sack of spuds. I could feel a horrible tearing feeling in my left ankle and I landed on my right knee, grazing it unattractively! James helped me up and supported me back to the hotel, my vision went all pixelated and I thought that I was going to faint. I was so glad to get back to our hotel room! However, although my ankle was very sore, this did not spoil the wonderful Sunday that we had in New York. 

Sunday in New York Part 2 - The Rockefeller Centre

We had booked brunch at the Rainbow Room at the Rockefeller Centre, so we headed there after our morning walk on the High Line. We duly arrived at 49 West 49th Street and were directed to a lift lined with polished walnut wood. There were no buttons, we were simply wheeched up smoothly to the 65th floor, our ears popping being the only indication that we were rising quite fast. When we entered the restaurant it was like stepping into the 1930s. The large, bright room was decorated in Art Deco style and a jazz band was playing on the mezzanine. We were shown to our table which was right beside the window looking towards the south, and as I gazed at the Empire State Building I suddenly remembered a scene from one of my favourite feel-good films. It is Sleepless in Seattle and James and I were seated exactly where Meg Ryan was sitting with Bill Pullman when she looked out of the window and saw the Empire State Building lit up with a large red heart. I was delighted - I hadn't realised that the scene had been filmed at the Rainbow Room, and I was impressed that James also remembered the scene. Brunch was amazing. There was everything that I could possibly have imagined to eat, and then some! There was every sort of salad and fruit, a carvery, an egg station, pancake station, and the desserts section was like Willy Wonka's chocolate factory with toasted marshmallows, macarons, and much more. Since it was a set price, we manfully ate as much as possible, with the result that we were not hungry for the rest of the day. The whole atmosphere was so relaxing. There was a dress code so we had dressed up a bit and felt rather smart as we strolled, replete, through the streets of New York City.

Sunday in New York Part 1 - The High Line

Yesterday was such an amazing day that it will require more that one blog entry, so here goes! 

James and I both got a good night's sleep and although we woke early due to still being partly in British time, it wasn't unfeasibly early. It was a beautiful warm morning in New York so we decided to walk the High Line before our planned brunch at the Rockefeller Centre. 

Ally and Cat had recommended the High Line as a good city walk. I had never heard of it - the first part of it opened in 2006 so it wasn't open the last time that we were in New York in 2001. It really is delightful! It's an aerial, linear park built in Lower West Manhattan on an elevated section of a disused New York Central Railroad spur called the West Side Line. It's only a couple of miles long and one end of it is very near our hotel at 34th Street so we started there, at the newest bit at Hudsons Yards. Although it is quite narrow there is lots to see and of course there are amazing views of the river and then the city. It runs more or less north - south although it winds about a bit. You can still see the tracks where the trains used to run. There are lots of plants so it's a green space as well, and there are sculptures. There are plenty of benches where you can relax in the sunshine with a cup of coffee, which we did. I loved the whole concept and it was nice to see lots of people enjoying it. 

Fitness Hotel!

I have to blog about our hotel in New York! It's very smart and the bed is very comfy. However what is notable is the fact that it is a "Fitness Hotel" - for those who know me and my intermittent attempts to become fitter this is quite amusing. As well as a large gym and a health food bar on the ground floor, the bedrooms themselves are furnished with exercise mats, gym bands and cords and a gym ball. There is also information on suggested running routes around the hotel, and when you switch on the large television there is a hotel channel devoted to showing you how to use the exercise equipment in your room! 

I love it, but will be too busy to use it all today because we're going for brunch at the Rockefeller Centre!

Upgrade!

To my absolute delight we were given an upgrade for our flight from London Heathrow to Newark! We were upgraded to premium economy which had lovely big seats, extra leg room, free champagne, freebies like toothbrushes and flight socks, and best of all we were in a row of two rather than three which I love! It was a great flight and as well as watching a film (Love and Friendship, a quirky wee film based on an obscure Jane Austen novella) I got a good couple of hours sleep. Just as well, because after our early start this morning, my nap bolstered my stamina for our first day in New York. 

It was a beautiful, warm and sunny afternoon when we arrived, so as soon as we had checked into our hotel in Chelsea we decided to head to Central Park. We took the metro to the very north of the park and over the next couple of hours we walked the length of it in a zigzag fashion. The sky was blue and the leaves in the trees were just beginning to turn golden. The park was full of people of all ages and nationalities, walking, jogging, playing sports, sitting on benches; it was such a a good day. We had drinks with biscuits and cheese at the Loeb Boathouse beside the lake. We eventually emerged from the park at 59th street and found our way back to 35th street without too much trouble. By this time we were both pretty exhausted - it was only about 8 p.m. but that's 1 a.m. British time - so off to bed we went, on the 22nd floor of our hotel.

All packed!

Well here we are at the school October holiday already! I am so pleased with how the last two months have gone at my new job. Of course no job is perfect but it suits me very well and I am enjoying it. I got a lovely compliment from a colleague today about my teaching, which came out of the blue and was very nice. 

This evening James and I went to see Jean-Michel Jarre at the Hydro after a delicious curry at the India Quay. To be honest he's not really my cup of tea but James was very excited about it. The concert was better than I expected and the electronic music was ..... not unpleasant. I quite liked the laser harp and the lighting displays we're spectacular. Most of the adoring audience were pretty ancient but then so is Jean-Michel! It was a good evening. 

And in six and a half hours we will be setting off to New York! Happy holidays! 

Davie is nearly 21

We visited our lovely boy David in Dundee yesterday. We took Grandma with us and Chanel came for lunch too. We booked our perennial favourite, the Bridgeview Station Restaurant which has gorgeous views across the Tay. It was such a beautiful day that we took our coffees outside after lunch to sit in the sunshine. I can hardly believe that my baby is nearly 21 years old. I'm so proud of his achievements - education has not been an easy road for David but he has worked so hard to get to 2nd year at Uni. I'm also proud of his work ethic - he works at least sixteen hours a week at Subway as well as a full time university course. But most of all I'm proud of him because he is the kindest, nicest boy you could hope to meet. 

Still Good

It has been a busy week and I haven't had time to blog. Well I have really, but instead have been watching Poldark, Cold Feet, the Great British Bake Off, and Victoria on television. If that is a waste of my life it's a very pleasant waste! 

The rest of my time has been taken up with working and socialising but sadly not much exercise. There was a stirring of genuine excitement among both pupils and staff at school yesterday at the return of that favourite Scottish television comedy of the early 2000s, "Still Game". This was originally a recurring sketch in a comedy called "Chewing the Fat", about two very grumpy old men. In the spin off they are still grumpy but more likeable, and the series proved to be tremendously popular in Scotland, many of the characters, settings and situations being very fond and familiar. It can be very, very, laugh out loud funny. It ended in 2007. Last year it was revived in a couple of stage shows which were very successful, and last night the first episode new series of Still Game was broadcast on BBC1. Needless to say James and I were keen to watch it and I thought it was good. They have sensibly stuck to the tried and trusted format, and because the actors have always been made up to look older than their age, their appearances in the new series are exactly the same, which makes it pretty seamless. I bet that the viewing figures will have been excellent since it seems to appeal to all ages, and it was nice to see Jack, Victor and the gang back. 

Autumn sunshine

It has been very mild right up until the end of September, however yesterday evening  I noticed that the temperature dropped considerably. It had been pleasantly mild during the day but by the evening there was a wee nip in the air. This morning it was misty and cool, and there definitely seems to be a change of season.

However we still had some beautiful weather today. James and I went through to Portobello in the hope of seeing Jennifer's poetry exhibition, even though we knew that it had ended on 30th September. We hoped that it might have been left in place over the weekend but alas it was gone - our own fault for leaving it so late. So we went for a walk along the prom all the way from Portobello to Musselburgh and back again. It was so nice walking beside the sea with views of Arthur's Seat in the distance. An elderly man asked us if the was "something on" because he was surprised at how many people were out and about. We suggested that, like us, lots of people were making the most of the sunshine while it lasts!