Summerfolk

It has been a whirlwind few days in London. I met up with Gordon, Morag, Sheena, Peter, and Alan at the Brasserie Zedel for lunch on Wednesday. It was really good and very French. My cheese soufflé was delicious. We then went to see “I’m Sorry Prime Minister” at the Apollo Theatre. Based on the popular tv series of the 1980s, it was very enjoyable and a bit like watching a couple of episodes of the series; the Prime Minister is long retired and is trying to cope with political correctness in his old age. The original cast have all died so the retired Prime Minister was played by Griff Rhys Jones and Sir Humphrey was played by Clive Francis. At the end there was a touching wee tribute to the original cast and writers as posters with their photos descended from the ceiling and the cast turned to applaud them. The London Theatre Club then repaired to a local hostelry for drinks before dispersing in various directions. Gordon headed to the train station for his return journey to Glasgow, while Morag and I walked to Westminster Abbey to attend a history talk about King James VI & I. It was strange to be in the sparsely lit abbey at night time, and the talk took place right beside King James VI & I’s grave, which is in a vault beneath the Henry VII Chapel. The talk was by historian Clare Jackson; she was very knowledgeable but not the most captivating speaker; let’s just say that she is no Lucy Worsley! Also it was really cold in Westminster Abbey! Morag and I went to a wee Italian Restaurant just off Leicester Square to warm up before going back to our hotel in Whitechapel. 
On Thursday morning we went to the Sky Garden for brunch. It was delightful and there were fantastic views in the sunny weather. I have been before with James, it was Morag’s first visit and we both loved it. 
After Morag left to continue her trip to see relatives, I decided to book a last minute ticket to see Summerfolk by Gorky, at the National Theatre. In 2019 James and I went to see Vassa by Gorky at the Almeida Theatre, and there are some similarities such as a decaying family and society. Summerfolk (1904) is about a group of idle and unhappy members of the Russian bourgeoisie, who are spending the summer at a dacha in a forest. There was a reference to the recently deceased Chekhov and his play The Cherry Orchard saying it "went on too long!” Apparently Summerfolk is often viewed as a response to The Cherry Orchard; this is interesting to me because we will be going to see The Cherry Orchard at the RSC in Stratford in July, so I will be able to compare the two plays. I thoroughly enjoyed it, and expertly navigated my way back to Whitechapel afterwards. I’m now at Heathrow airport ready for my afternoon flight back to Glasgow; I have been away from home for twenty-three days! 

A Splendid Day Out in the capital

I had a good nights sleep in my little hotel room and decided to visit the Wallace Collection in the morning because it currently has a Caravaggio painting on display; Victorious Cupid, on loan from the Gemäldegalerie in Berlin. He’s a happy and cheeky looking Cupid, very realistic standing surrounded by discarded symbols of human achievement. Excellent. 
In the café of the Wallace Collection, the waiter who brought me my cheese and chive scone said, “Try to resist as long as you can; your coffee is just coming!” It was indeed a delicious scone! Later I was sitting in a Chilean cafe near Hyde Park when I noticed that the music playing was “I’m on my Way” by the Proclaimers. How appropriate - the same song that Rodrigo was singing with me only a couple of days ago during our bio walk! 
The book which I will always associate with my trip to Chile is not Bruce Chatwin’s “In Patagonia” or Isabel Allende’s “House of the Spirits” or even Che Guevara’s “Motorcycle Diaries” although I read all of these in preparation for our journey. It is in fact “Lonesome Dove” by Larry McMurtry, recommended to me by Heather and set, not in Chile, but in New Mexico in the cowboy days of the late 19th century. It’s extremely good; such a great story and characters, and it took me most of the holiday to read because we didn’t have time for much reading! As Gus painted on his sign, Uva uvam vivendo varia fit; “A grape ripens by living with another grape.” Similarly the characters in the book develop during their journey together. It’s right up there with my favourite books of all time. 
I met Cat for a tasty pre-theatre meal in Sticky Mango, which serves South-East Asian cuisine and we had a good chat before walking g the short distance to the Young Vic to meet Gordon, Morag, Sheena and Peter, aka the London Theatre Club! Gordon had chosen “Broken Glass” which was excellent; set in New York just before the Second World War, one of the characters becomes paralysed, perhaps symbolising the powerlessness of the Jewish community on hearing the news of the atrocities in Europe. There were parallels with current events too, and it was very thought-provoking. We spoke briefly to actor Eli Gelb at the end of the performance, and then Cat and I saw Alex Waldmann (who played the doctor) running for a train at Waterloo Station; Cat called out “You were great in the play!” and he gave us a big smile. 

Santiago back to London

We had a delightful breakfast on Sunday before being picked up from La Casona at the civilised hour of 8.50 a.m. - much more relaxing than some of the very early pick ups that we have had during our holiday! We have seen and done so much and it has been brilliant. I’m particularly pleased to have done so many outdoor activities; hiking, cycling and swimming, and also trying white water rafting and horse-riding. We have seen a selection of really different parts of Chile; Santiago, Patagonia, Las Lagos, the Atacama desert, and the wine region of the Casablanca Valley. We have met lots of friendly and pleasant people, both guides and fellow travellers. We have tasted lots of Chilean food and James has tasted many Chilean wines. We have stayed in tents, a very simple hotel in Puerto Natales, a very smart and comfortable hotel in Puerto Varas, overlooking a lake, a quirky hotel in San Pedro with a ceiling fan and thick adobe walls, and a luxurious vineyard hotel set in a beautiful valley. Everyone we met said Hola! We have had great weather; only two rainy days in three weeks, and of course one memorably rainy night in a tent in Paine Grande! Sometimes it has been borderline too hot for me - when hiking in Torres del Paine and in the hot days in the Atacama desert. 
The fourteen hour overnight flight from Santiago to London was tedious but improved by the slightly more comfortable Economy Plus seats. We had a reviving coffee at Heathrow Airport before going our separate ways; James headed back to Glasgow to see the cats and I headed into London where I am going to spend a few days of culture and theatre! I’m staying in a wee Ibis hotel in Whitechapel rather than at Ally and Cat’s flat because it’s Ally’s financial year end this week and he’s extremely busy at work, so I thought that he should have a guest free house when he does get home from work! I may not see him at all this week because of this but I will be seeing Cat, which will be lovely. I walked to Canary Wharf and had dinner in Dishoom by myself; it’s the first time that I have been to one of this popular chain of Indian restaurants and it didn’t disappoint, the staff were friendly and the food was delicious. 

Lettuce

When Davie and Chanel were living in Stirling, they had a wee chalk board beside their door which they used to jot down groceries that they needed. One day when I was visiting them, I noticed that they had written “Loo rolls and Lettuce” on the board, and I said jokingly, “Are those your chosen baby names?” which they found very amusing!
Well, at the end of January this year, James and I were invited to their house for pizza before one of the Quiz nights at the Rowantree Inn. We sat down and Davie handed me a supermarket bag with a couple of gem lettuce in it. I was puzzled. Was he perhaps giving them to me as part of the healthy diet that I am always intending to embrace? I automatically said thank you and then “Why are you giving me these?” to which he replied, “You said that you wanted loo rolls or lettuce!” Very quickly the penny dropped - Chanel is pregnant! I burst into tears of happiness while James remained confused for a moment until Davie explained. I cannot express how overjoyed we both are to become grandparents, and what a lovely and special way Davie and Chanel chose to tell us! I have been absolutely bursting with the news for the last seven weeks but I have said not a word to anybody. Now Chanel is 13 weeks pregnant and she has had her dating scan; Baby Anderson is due on 25th September! Davie and Chanel have told the good news to Ally, Cat, Jamie and Kerry this week so now we can tell the rest of the family and our friends. 

Horse-riding in Chile

We woke to much birdsong at La Casona, there are geese, southern lapwings, cormorants, and turkey vultures, Californian quail, and lots more that we didn’t identify. We enjoyed watching the geese on the pond when we were eating breakfast in the restaurant. Our first activity of the day was a bio hike with Rodrigo. The valley looked beautiful; steam was rising from all the plants into the air as it warmed. He told us about the plants and animals of the area. For example he showed us Boldo leaves which are infused in boiling water to make a traditional herbal remedy for digestive issues and liver health. The Litre tree provides habitat and food for native species, but has poisonous sap that irritates the skin.  We saw big eucalyptus trees with silvery leaves, and a huge organ pipe cactus. Rodrigo is also very interested in language and history, and he told us a bit about recent Chilean history, which was very interesting to hear from a young Chilean. He is sure that Salvador Allende shot himself (rather than being shot by Pinochet’s soldiers) because Rodrigo’s grandfather’s friend was the doctor who certified Allende’s death. 
We went along to the swimming pool for a few hours and it was absolutely idyllic. Turkey vultures were swooping overhead; birds were singing in the trees, we swam and then relaxed on comfortable loungers. 
After lunch it was time to go in our final activity; horse-riding! This was James’ idea to try something new, and it turned out to be great fun. After a bit of instruction we climbed onto our horses and set of on a trek through the valley. We were accompanied by the instructor and four friendly Americans. My horse was a bay called Marlen and James rode Pintau, who was black with a white star on his forehead. We rode along through the gorgeous countryside, despite being told how to make the horses stop and start, they really did exactly as they pleased. Sometimes they paused to eat some grass, then trotted to join the other horses, which was very bumpy. Naughty Marlen even nipped another horse at one point although it didn’t seem too bothered. It was a lovely experience. 
Later we enjoyed a five course tasting menu in the restaurant, paired with wine for James. It was all delicious, however towards the end of the meal the maitre d’ got a bit confused with the courses. We were brought dessert spoons for the final course (five) and had to politely point out that we were on course four not course five. So the spoons were removed, but two minutes later the spoons were firmly returned. Then course four arrived and we had to ask for knives and forks! This did not detract from a really special culinary experience, very fitting for our last night in Chile. 

La Casona at Matetic Vineyards

We were sad to leave San Pedro early this morning, we have never been anywhere like it; this little dusty town in the middle of the desert. Calama Airport was pleasantly uncrowded and we had coffee and pastries before our flight. Back in Santiago, we were soon picked up by our driver and an hour and a half later we arrived at La Casona at Matetic Vineyards, in the Casablanca Valley. I don’t know what I expected, but I was taken aback at the beauty of the hotel, all on ground level, with its large rooms all opening onto three sides of a courtyard filled with lush flowers. The octagonal restaurant, with huge windows looking onto a pond, is a short stroll away, as is the outdoor swimming pool. The Rodrigo greeted us and was so friendly, and helped us to book activities for the afternoon and the next day. After a quick lunch we set off on a wine tour of the estate by minibus. The guide pointed out the different varieties of grapes, which are currently being harvested. In the fields there were little wind turbines which prevent winter frost from forming on the vines. The valley is called Rosario because it’s in the shape of a rosary, and it’s owned by the Matetic family who run the winery and farm in a bio way, using herbs and animals as natural fertilisers and weed control. We had a tour of the winery itself before a wine tasting back at the restaurant. I opted out of this because I had tried a mouthful of wine at the winery and it instantly gave me dreadful heartburn. Later we had a seven course dinner while being entertained by a guitar player and an accordionist playing traditional dance music and a couple of elderly but enthusiastic dancers. 

Valle de la Luna

Today’s tour guide was Vicente who originally comes from Concepion in the south of Chile. We had two pleasant young American travelling companions called Chris and Abby, a cardiologist and a biologist specialising in algae, which she monitors in Lake Superior. They live in Minnesota. 

First we had breakfast watching the sun rise over the mountains, with a lively and knowledgable commentary from Vicente. I had my first taste of Coca leaves infused in boiling water; they are a stimulant and combat altitude sickness, hunger, and fatigue. The desert mornings are delightfully cool, but it gets hot quickly. Then off we set to the famous Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley), a stunning landscape. It really is otherworldly and almost completely barren, no wonder it was named after the surface of the moon. It’s a mixture of stone and sand formations, including huge sand dunes. We could see expanses of salt lying on the surface in the distance. We walked up the sandy trail to a high lookout point, it became increasingly hot and the earth dropped away alarmingly at the side of the path into a deep ravine. Apparently it can be very windy but not today. NASA has used the Valle de la Luna to test autonomous rover prototypes for movement, drilling, and sample collection because it’s the area on earth most like the landscape of Mars. Back at the minibus we set off to Ayllu, a tiny traditional community, where we walked round the vegetable gardens and adobe houses. James was encouraged to pick a pomegranate off the tree (you do it by twisting, not pulling) and we all enjoyed eating the seeds. We saw a huge variety of fruit like quinces and pears, and vegetables including asparagus, which they grow very thin and tall here. We had lunch on a shady terrace; Sopapaillas with the freshest salsa I have ever tasted. We tasted arrope de chañar, a thick, dark sticky or syrup made from the fruit of the chañar tree (Geoffroea decorticans) and then a dessert which was a mousse made with arrope, which we sprinkled with crunchy dried quinoa seeds. Back in San Pedro we visited the pharmacy because James got water in one of his ears when we were white water rafting in Puerto Vargas, and it’s feeling sore. This has happened before on holiday so hopefully we can nip it in the bud before it gets worse. It’s so dusty in the Atacama desert, when I had my shower later my hair and skin felt gritty.