Lewis and Harris

It has been interesting to spend time in Stornoway during our holiday in the Western Isles. In the past, Stornoway has been a place that we have passed through on our way to South Harris, sometimes stopping to stock up on groceries in its supermarket; we have never spent much time there. It’s not as pretty as, for example, Tarbert in Harris, and mostly just looks like an ordinary little Scottish town. However as we have strolled around Stornoway on our way to its very decent selection of restaurants, I have got to know it a bit better. The harbour area is quite attractive in the practical way of a fishing town, and the verdant woods and paths of Lews Park overlook the town and provide walking and cycling very close to its centre. From the windows of our delightful accommodation in Lews Castle we have been able to watch the ferry to Ullapool arrive and depart at a stately pace, until it is clear of the harbour and picks up speed to head back to the mainland. I am glad that I have had the chance to become better acquainted with Stornoway. 

The same goes for the rest of Lewis. I have visited several of Lewis’s highlights on previous trips; I have been awed by the ancient stones of Calanais and the rocky splendour of the Butt of Lewis. However I have long regarded its landscape as fairly flat and bleak, especially when I have driven across it in poor weather. I have always felt that its neighbour, Harris, wins hands down in terms of dramatic hills and stunning beaches. This all changed during our cycle across the island on Monday; at a slower pace I was able to appreciate the lush green countryside of Lewis under big skies, the wildflowers and the many glittering blue lochans, all the while accompanied by the insistent song of skylarks. And today a friendly lady in the tourist information office was waxing lyrical about various Lewis beaches which she assured us could rival any in Harris. I will always love Harris, but thanks to this holiday I have found a place in my heart for Lewis too.