Wednesday, 31 July 2013

An excellent month

And so July comes to an end. It has been a great month of travel, adventure and fun, which I have enjoyed and appreciated. Yesterday I had a lovely lunch with Jackie and her beautiful boys at House for an Art Lover to celebrate her 40th birthday (which is actually today.) The food was delicious and we took the boys to the playground later. Today I took Grandma shopping for clothes for her holiday. We had lunch in John Lewis' at a window table overlooking the steps of the Royal Concert Hall with Sauchiehall Street beyond. A pleasant end to the month. Tomorrow I start back to work, and a busy time awaits me. Goodbye July, it's been grand! 

Monday, 29 July 2013

Sonntag im Tiergarten

We had a great night's sleep at our lovely hotel and woke refreshed and ready for more Berlin adventures. To our surprise it had rained in the early morning but the clouds soon burned off. After the nicest croissant that I have tasted for many a long year in a nearby café, we set off into the warm city. The Tiergarten was just lovely - a green space in the city with lots of trees, criss crossed by paths. We walked through its dappled shade and enjoyed beautiful views of ponds and rivers. We saw red squirrels and little birds hopping about, and pretty fountains. Berliners were cycling and jogging through it - and some people were sunbathing nude, apparently a favourite occupation. We saw them at a distance - well, either it was the Naturists or people wearing pink bathing costumes! We chatted and walked around; I can't think of a nicer way to spend a Sunday morning!
We visited the large, curved Soviet War Memorial which was built just after the war to commemorate the thousands of Russian soldiers who died at the end of April 1945 during the Battle of Berlin. Two tanks stand on either side of it. Ewan pointed out an amazing photograph at the little outdoors museum behind it which shows the new memorial standing in a wasteland, because the trees of the Tiergarten had been destroyed by incendiary bombs and then stripped of timber for firewood during the last months of the war. It was strange to see it like that because it has such a peaceful setting today on the edge of the woodland. We ended up in a café on the edge of the park, the same one that we were in yesterday, across from the Reichstag, for a refreshing drink then moved onto Die Eins Restaurant for lunch. This restaurant was right beside the River Spree and as we sat outside, a procession of tourist boats went past us - it was so hot that many of the occupants were holding up umbrellas to shield themselves from the sun! We had a nice lunch; mine was a cheese and bacon tart, which was too big for me to finish but tasted delicious.
Our journey home in the afternoon went well, again Heather and Ewan navigated us expertly on the city transport and when we got to the airport they even found us a cute little pub with bar stools just under an air conditioner! Our flight was only two hours back to Glasgow and we were home for tea time. We had heard that it was raining in Glasgow, and it had been, but it was a fine evening by the time we got home. Davie and Jack greeted us with some enthusiasm and we had an early night after our exciting weekend. 


Sunday, 28 July 2013

Hot in Berlin

It is hot in Berlin! Yesterday evening when we were on our way back to our hotel after dinner it was still 34 degrees at ten o'clock at night!
However, l will go back to the start of the day. James and I got up at 4 a.m. for our flight to Berlin and all went smoothly; we met Heather and Ewan at our hotel at 10 and soon we were on the streets. The fact that I was absolutely melting with the heat did not impede my enjoyment of the day; I drank copious amounts of water and also splashed myself constantly with water from my bottle and from fountains that we passed, sometimes climbing right in. I could tell that this looked more than a little bizarre by the quizzical looks that James was giving me, but I didn't care because it worked and kept me cool enough to appreciate this amazing city. I love Berlin! Although there were plenty of other visitors, there was somehow a pleasant air of calm in Berlin; it wasn't as frantically busy as London was on Friday. Heather and Ewan have been in the city since Wednesday and know their way around very well. They kindly took us round some of their favourite highlights - we would never have found our way to these places with such ease without their help.
Our first visit was to the Brandenburg Gate. This is Berlin's most famous landmark topped by its Quadriga sculpture of the goddess of peace in her horse drawn chariot. Needless to say lots of armies have marched around there at times of war. It's set in an attractive open area where there are lots of embassies.
Ewan expertly guided us to Hitler's underground bunker. It is a now a car park. There is nothing to see of the bunker above the ground now, although parts of it still exist under the ground. Until recently it was not marked at all, but now there is an information board. I think I would find it a bit eerie if it was the car park beside my house, what with its grim history.
The nearby Holocaust memorial was strange and thought-provoking. It consists of a large field of dark grey blocks of varying heights. As you walk into it the blocks get higher and sort of surround you, and you start feeling drawn in and sort of oppressed. However Heather and Ewan's walking tour guide a couple of days ago had explained to them that this is something that everyone should experience in their own way, so I won't say more about how I felt. I did feel that it was a fitting and moving memorial.
I also found the Berlin Wall memorial to be very moving. I felt that I already knew quite a lot about it from various documentaries over the years, and I remember feeling very emotional when I saw the scenes of the wall coming down in November 1989 when I was pregnant with Jamie. But actually being there was very different. Two sections of the wall have been left standing so you can walk through the "no man's land" in the middle. There are some exhibits and explanation boards, and there is a recording on a speaker that gently speaks the names and ages of the 163 people who died trying to escape from East to West Germany between 1961 and 1989. It is very sad. Many more people were killed trying to escape from East to West in other parts of the border of course but this particular memorial is for those who tried to get across in Berlin. Every time that someone was successful in escaping the East Germans would step up their security. For example Heather and Ewan told me that some of Berlin's Underground stations were in the Russian Sector and they were closed in 1961. They became "ghost stations" and some people tried to escape by going down there and hoping that one of the underground trains would slow down enough for them to cling on and thus escape to the West. And this sometimes did work. But when the Russian authorities found out, the stations were completely bricked up. I felt that the whole philosophy of the Cold War era, which lasted all of my life until I was twenty-six, was so wasteful and stupid. I was glad to find out more about it.
Lunch was at the very modern and smart Potsdamer Platz, which has restaurants, shops and cinemas. We dined in a pleasant Australian restaurant where I took the opportunity to have a cooling wash down in the Ladies' Toilet!
We continued to Alexanderplatz where the radio mast is - the centre of the old East Berlin. Even though it was such a sunny day we could tell by the stark architecture that it must have been pretty bleak in the East. We jumped on a tram and had drinks in a pleasant outdoors café across from the Reichstag, where Ewan had kindly booked a tour for 3.30p.m. - but just as we approached it was closed! The temperature inside had reached SIXTY degrees and they weren't going to let any more visitors in! I told you that it is hot in Berlin - news reports proclaimed that it was the hottest day for 54 years!
Later on we visited the Gendarmenmarkt, a lovely square which Heather and Ewan told us is considered to be the most beautiful in Berlin. It has a French Cathedral which the Germans built to make the refugee French Huguenots feel welcome when they fled there in the late 17th century. To say thank you the Huguenots then built an identical German cathedral on the other side of the square, and these twin churches look very beautiful. In between them is the Konzerthaus, a former theatre which was damaged in World War 2 and was restored as a concert hall. We had drinks in a beautiful café in the square. On the way back to the hotel we visited a great chocolate shop, which Heather and Ewan had found out about when they went on their walking tour. There were chocolate sculptures of Berlin Landmarks and an impressive chocolate volcano! I couldn't resist buying some chocolates - raspberry, blueberry and passion fruit!
Back at the hotel James and I checked in, it's a really excellent hotel and we would look no further on a future visit to Berlin; air conditioned, comfy, very clean and elegant with a nice wee bar downstairs. We had showers and a rest and then we all set off for dinner, calling first at the famous Checkpoint Charlie, which is very near to our hotel. There is a small checkpoint building but most of the surrounding paraphernalia and other border barriers and buildings are gone. However, nearby hoardings have pictures of what it used to look like. There are also metal plates on the pavement marking where the border used to be. I think that it is right that it should be remembered as a warning to the future of what can happen.
We all felt that German cuisine would be appropriate for our dinner together in Berlin to celebrate Heather's birthday, and Ewan came up trumps with the Nolle restaurant just round the corner from the Friedrichstrasse station which turned out to be just perfect for the occasion. It was set in an archway under the S-bahn so it had an elegantly curved ceiling and was decorated with Art Deco paintings and mirrors. The menu was German and we had a delicious dinner and a lovely chat. We could even hear the trains going overhead - the staff were friendly and it had a great atmosphere. The evening was rounded off by drinks back at the hotel. Strangely enough, by this time I had become almost used to the heat, but suddenly the other three, who had managed the heat much better than me all day, became visibly overheated! It must have been because we were digesting our hearty dinner, which can heat you up. What a marvellous day it has been! 

Friday, 26 July 2013

Swimming in the Serpentine

Today has been very unusual and very good fun. Because James was working, I had the opportunity to spend a whole day by myself in London before meeting James and flying to Berlin tomorrow. My pleasant dilemma has been; how to best spend my time? Now if it had been winter I would have headed for museums or art galleries, or perhaps even a matinée at the theatre. But what would I really like to do on this glorious July day in London? Suddenly the answer came to me - go swimming outdoors of course! Unlike Glasgow, London has quite a few outdoor pools or lidos, and the most central of these is a section of the Serpentine in Hyde Park. I planned my route and packed my swimming costume and I was ready to go! All went smoothly and by eleven o'clock I arrived at Hyde Park. The lido is LOVELY and well organised, you access it via a bridge and it is surrounded by bushes on the land side so it has a nice private feel to it. I had a coffee at the Lido café and then got changed and hired a sun lounger which I placed under a large sycamore tree. There were plenty of other people there, especially families, but it was not too crowded either, the atmosphere was relaxed and happy. After reading my book for a while I decided to go for my swim. I was a bit concerned about what the swimming area would be like underfoot; I thought it might be slimy but in fact it was quite sandy. Of course there were plenty of weeds floating past me under the water as I swam along, but the water was better than I had feared and nice and warm after the past few weeks' heatwave. I loved my time in the water! I swam about for an hour or so, just taking in the view of the river with pedalos going up and down, people walking and jogging and sunbathing in the park, ducks swimming around me. I showered beside the river (no shampoo allowed because it drains straight back into the water), then relaxed on my sun lounger until I was completely dry. 
I then went to see the nearby Diana Memorial Fountain, which I haven't visited until now. I liked it very much, and on this sunny day it was FULL of children walking round it (it's a big loop). Signs requested that people sit on the edge of the fountain to paddle rather than walk on it, but this was being completely ignored, and I felt that Diana would have approved of all the fun!
I went to nearby Harrods for lunch at the dim sum bar and a browse around, which was pleasant but awfully busy. And then I made my way to Luton airport where I met James at the Holiday Inn Express where we had supper together. At only five minutes walk from the airport terminal I would definitely go back there in similar circumstances. 

Thursday, 25 July 2013

Summer storms

Just a quick post because I have an early start tomorrow morning to begin an exciting weekend in Berlin to celebrate Heather's 50th birthday. I think I have succeeded in curing my jet lag! We all got a great sleep on Tuesday night and I felt more or less back to British time on Wednesday. It is definitely important to stay awake until bed time after going west to east across the Atlantic if you possibly can. Then a good night's sleep brings you back into line with normal sleep times, except that occasionally you feel unexpectedly tired so perhaps you're not quite as cured as you thought!
James did a great job of processing all the washing so we are quite organised in the house, and although James is now back at work, Davie and I are enjoying the warm summer weather. Scotland has been having an extended heatwave over the last three weeks and I think we are just catching the end of it; yesterday was beautiful and today there has been thunder and lightning and brief but torrential rain storms but it has remained very warm. Even if we have missed most of the hot weather here we can't complain because we got great weather in Alaska. Jack is being quite clingy and has been following us around the house and garden; we have been giving him lots of attention. Grandma came round for tea last night and said that Davie "has a lovely nature" which I was very pleased about. I went swimming to Tollcross again today - I do like that pool, you always get a lane to yourself. Jamie has had his head shaved in Iquitos; he sent us a photo and Grandma was torn between horror and amusement! Ally and Cat are in the north of Borneo and we will hopefully be Skyping them over the next few days. Time for bed, my eyes are closing! 

Tuesday, 23 July 2013

Jet lag and the Royal Baby

We are home at last after our long journey from Anchorage to Seattle to Philadelphia to Glasgow. We got home mid-morning after our overnight flight and we are absolutely exhausted. We are aiming to stay awake until at least eight o'clock this evening in order to sleep through the night and minimise our jet lag. This has been quite difficult because we only got a few disturbed hours of sleep on the plane last night and we are yawning constantly. We of course immediately collected Jack from his cattery; he looked very well after his holiday and is now walking around the house and garden bemusedly checking it all out. This being the anniversary of James' Dad's death, we took Grandma to visit the family grave. I can hardly believe that it has been eight years already. Grandma said "It's a long time to have been without him." which I thought was very sad. We had a coffee in Marks and Spencer's and Grandma enjoyed that and did a bit of shopping.
Now I am watching television waiting for the Royal Baby to emerge from the hospital with his Mummy and Daddy. He will be held by Kate on the same steps where I watched William being held by Diana in 1982. So much has happened since then.

Meanwhile here are a few final reflections on some moments from our great holiday.

Racing Davie down to our cabin on the ship using the stairs when he was in the lift - and James rushing over to press the lift button on each floor to make sure that Davie didn't win! We all laughed until we were falling down!

On the ship I didn't see the "S" on the Skywalkers Bar sign because of the stylised design, so I called it "Ky-wal-kers bar" until James and Davie laughingly pointed out my mistake.

On the ship James and I both decided to go to the toilet at the Skywalker Bar. Davie said "Hurry up you weak bladdered old fools!"

Finding out, when I asked for a punnet of raspberries at Anchorage market, that "punnet" is a Scottish word and not known in America!

After I had a delicious dessert of banana wontons in Fairbanks, Davie asked me, "Have you had enough dessert or are you "wonton" some more?" This sense of humour is horrifyingly like James!

Hearing a song "Red red red red redneck" on the radio and finding it amusing. And then Davie getting a red neck in the sun so we sang it to him.

Me falling down several times on the way down the Angel Rocks trail near Fairbanks - there's something comical about someone falling even when it's yourself!

The old lady behind us in the Denali tour bus to her long-suffering husband - "Bill, open the window! Give me the camera! Not that camera Bill! The other one! Quickly Bill! Too late Bill!" All in a wheezy New York accent. Then she loved David and invited him to come to visit her!

Finding out in Ray's restaurant in Seward that fillet is pronounced "feel-ay" in America!

And finally, the birth of the Royal Baby being announced by the air hostess on the plane when we landed in Philadelphia airport on the way home on Monday 22nd July.

Monday, 22 July 2013

Exit Glacier and Goodbye Alaska

On our last morning in Alaska we decided to go for a short hike at Exit Glacier; further on from the viewpoint that we walked to yesterday, you can walk nearer to the foot of the Glacier, it's about an hour's round trip. So after packing up we drove up the valley in beautiful weather and parked at the visitors' centre. We had a very pleasant walk up to the moraine and took photos of the glacier in all its glory. On our way back down through the woods we met some walkers who told us excitedly that they had seen a black bear climbing up a tree. James had packed away his bear bell in the suitcase so we all walked along loudly singing "Teddy Bear's Picnic" so as not to surprise any bears - they react badly to surprises, hence the bell that James usually straps to his rucksack. Sadly we did not spot the bear on our way back to the car, but it was a lovely farewell walk and we all felt quite wistful as we set off back to Anchorage.
Our journey so far has been efficient and unremarkable; we are now in our Seattle Hotel and we have an early flight tomorrow so I probably won't be blogging until we get back to Glasgow. Time for bed!