Friday, 10 October 2025
First cold of the season
Wednesday, 8 October 2025
Tablet
I enjoyed my Northern Renaissance Art class yesterday; this week was about the symbolism and realism in the Netherlandish art. It actually raised more questions in my mind than answers. Is the mousetrap in Joseph’s workshop in the Mérode Altarpiece by Robert Campin really a symbol of the devil trapping Jesus? Or is it (as I instinctively feel) just a mousetrap? I walked to Partick Station on my way home because the earlier drizzle had stopped and it was a fine afternoon.
James made tablet for the first time ever yesterday. Gran Jan asked me to deliver some of her tablet to Rachel last week for a charity sale, and I think this gave James the idea to try making some. Also we have discussed offering to make tablet as wedding favours for Jamie’s wedding in 2027. James worked and stirred away using his sugar thermometer and the results were fantastic. It tasted just as good as my Dad’s tablet and that is high praise indeed.
Today Ally and Colin came for lunch and we made them a lamb and quince tagine. The quinces were picked from our own tree. It turned out very well if I say so myself, and we served it with couscous, a dollop of thick yoghurt and flatbreads. We made double quantities so there was plenty to freeze and I made a butternut squash version for myself. We had a lovely catch up with Ally and Colin, and after lunch we had coffee and baklavas sitting in the back room which was nice and warm. Colin also partook enthusiastically of James’ tablet; it really is excellent.
Monday, 6 October 2025
Deceiving the Eye in the National Gallery
Sunday, 5 October 2025
Woolwich to Eltham
Saturday, 4 October 2025
Ally saves a pigeon
We made our way to Swiss Cottage where we had a pre-theatre meal in a delightful Lebanese Restaurant called Arabesque. Then we went just round the corner to Hampstead Theatre to see Titus Andronicus. This was of course part of my quest to see all of Shakespeare’s plays performed live; this was my 22nd out of a total of 38 plays. Ally and Cat had good-naturedly agreed to join us. I was a bit concerned about it; Titus Andronicus is one of Shakespeare’s least loved plays because of its huge amount of graphic violence, and I didn’t want Ally and Cat to feel that they had wasted their Saturday evening on a load of rubbish, even though I knew that they wouldn’t complain. I needn’t have worried; the play was much better than any of us expected. It was indeed very bloody but the plot was robust, the actors were excellent, and the director had cleverly played up the gory bits so that they seemed so over the top as to be almost surreal. We all enjoyed it and had a good chat about it on the way back to Canary Wharf on the Jubilee Line.
Friday, 3 October 2025
Troilus and Cressida
Thursday, 2 October 2025
My Neighbour Totoro
After the show we walked some more (12 km in total during the day) and later had a decent if not outstanding meal in Gordon Ramsay’s Limehouse restaurant, which we have passed many times as we have walked to and from Ally and Cat’s flat over the last few years. It has been a long but satisfying day.
Wednesday, 1 October 2025
A coffee on Mum and Dad’s bench
I then went up to East Kilbride Shopping Centre to boots for a Scottish NHS health check, where they found out that I had low blood pressure. It’s 82/59 which apparently is quite low. So I’m to talk to the doctor; apart from that, I am a good weight for my height so that’s good news. As I walked through East Kilbride Shopping Centre I felt a bit sad at how it has deteriorated from the fairly smart place it used to be when the boys were younger, and even from when I took pupils there in later years. A lot of the shops have closed which makes it look a bit bleak. However, the girls in the health check clinic told me that part of it is going to close and the rest will be consolidated, which hopefully will give it a new lease of life. Walking through there was similar for me to Proust dipping his Madeleine in his cup of tea; it brought back a lot of memories and I could picture it in its past incarnations very clearly.
Elspeth came round in the afternoon and we visited my Mum and Dad’s memorial bench in Douglas Park together. We brought a flask of coffee and some cakes. It was really special and we had a good talk about our parents, who were great friends, and about family and life in general.
Tuesday, 30 September 2025
Lunching
Today was the second of my Northern Renaissance Art classes. I had lunch at Eusebio beforehand and thought fondly of my lunches there with Jackie, however although my spicy poached eggs on Italian toast were delicious, they were really too expensive and I will return there only sparingly. The course was good, however I think that my previous lecturer in 2024 was more structured so I’m glad that I have done the course before and have a basic knowledge to build on. Again I walked to Finnieston Station through Kelvingrove Park after the class which was very pleasant with lots of people out and about. I saw a squirrel and a crow squaring up to each other beside a tree and I wanted to see what would happen next, but another person walked past nearer to them and they both hopped off. I had a meeting in Blantyre in the early evening and when I left at about quarter past seven it was already getting dark; the nights are fair drawing in!
Sunday, 28 September 2025
Sunny Weekend Miscellany
Today Hilary and Steven came round for lunch and then we went for a wee walk up to Holmhills Park where the trees were absolutely covered in red berries; the views over the east of Glasgow towards the Campsies were stunning in the sunshine. And later Davie came over to join us for a Sunday night curry, both the curry and his company were very pleasant.
Friday, 26 September 2025
Kingfisher Blue
James and I had brunch with Gerry and Janis in All Bar One; they were full of the joys and we caught up on each others’ summer adventures. They showed us recent photos of their wee grandson Rory, he is so cute. We decided to go for a walk in the west end since the good weather is still with us, despite the dire predictions of the weather forecasters. Again there was not a cloud in the sky and the Botanic Gardens were pleasantly busy with people enjoying the sunshine. We walked down to the River Kelvin and spotted, for the first time in either of our lives, a kingfisher! It was the most amazing bright blue and was sitting on a log that protruded into the river. We walked beside the river where the surroundings were autumnal and pretty, then up into Kelvingrove Park and on to Kelvin Hall underground station and thence to Cowcaddens. We had a lovely meal with Gordon and Morag in the Piper’s Tryst and caught up on more news, before going to see comedian Stewart Lee at the Theatre Royal. I like Stewart Lee and have seen him before, however this evening I thought that he was a bit too chaotic even though there were some very funny bits. But then again chaotic is what he does, so that’s part of the deal. I thoroughly enjoyed myself and I could see what he was aiming for, which was to satirise right wing comedians, but James did not feel the same way and told me afterwards that he will not be returning to see Stewart Lee ever again. That’s comedy though, it’s very subjective.
Thursday, 25 September 2025
Small Acts of Love
Dougie came round in the afternoon for a coffee and we had a really good chat with him, There are aspects of his life of which I had no idea, he’s a very interesting person.
Then Lesley and Chris arrived to give us a lift to Glasgow Green where we had a pre-theatre meal with them in Whistlers on the Green before going on to the Citizens Theatre. I am absolutely thrilled that the Citz has reopened after about seven years. It’s one of my favourite theatres and we have seen some fantastic productions there in the past. Its opening play is Small Acts of Love and what a brilliant play it is. The cast was led by that fine Scottish actress Blythe Duff, but actually there was no principal actor because they all played multiple parts. The play was about how the people of Lockerbie supported each other and the families of the American victims of the Lockerbie disaster in 1988. I remember it so well. It was a musical play with the music written by Ricky Ross, and the stories the acting and the music where all excellent, and very moving. Gordon and Morag were there too and we were chatting with him at the interval. Afterwards we set off with Lesley and Chris to walk back to their car, which we had left on the other side of the river. However, as we approached Albert Bridge we saw that it was taped off by the police with lots of emergency vehicles including river rescue. This meant we had to take a detour down to Saint Andrew’s suspension bridge and back up through Glasgow Green. It was a fine mild evening so that was no hardship, but I did wonder what incident had happened. There was nothing in the news so it may have been a training exercise.
Tuesday, 23 September 2025
Northern Renaissance again
Afterwards I decided to walk through Kelvingrove Park to Exhibition Centre station because it was such a nice day. The park was busy with school kids on their way home, student, parents and children. The leaves on the trees are beginning to turn orange and yellow, but it didn’t look like full autumn yet. I was surprised at how short the walk was; less than two kilometres.
Monday, 22 September 2025
It’s a Wild World
This evening we had a real treat. Cat Stevens is doing a book tour to promote his autobiography, and the event was advertised as being a chat about his life with some music. I was slightly concerned that this would mean only a few songs, but I bought tickets anyway. Well, there was lots of chat and there was also lots of music so I was delighted. Cat Stevens is very personable and he didn’t shy away from awkward subjects of faith and politics; he was very interesting and has led a fascinating life, always seeking the truth. The music was wonderful! He played lots of his old songs like “Wild World” and “Father and Son” and “The First Cut is the Deepest” (yes he wrote that!) and “I love my Dog” and many more. “Morning is Broken” was just stunning. I was so happy.
Saturday, 20 September 2025
Malva Pudding
Today Davie and Chanel came over for lunch and we had a good chat. They were looking very well and happy, and both enjoying their new jobs. Then this evening we had dinner at Cornell and Heather‘s with Heather‘s brother Brian and his wife Yolandie. They were all brought up in South Africa, although Heather and Brian were born in Scotland. What a fun and interesting family they are. Heather made us an absolutely delicious dinner of which the crowning glory was Malva Pudding, a caramelised sponge pudding containing apricot jam, which is a favourite in South Africa. It is now a favourite of mine too and I had two helpings!
Thursday, 18 September 2025
Flora flees
Today was all about unpacking and settling back home. The cats stuck pretty close to me as I pottered around upstairs. James and I treated ourselves to lunch in the Museum of Rural Life, one of our old haunts. This evening I went to EK Book Club at Maria’s. It was good to see everyone again and there was a lot of news to catch up on from the summer.
Tuesday, 16 September 2025
Summer’s End
Saturday, 13 September 2025
Ruddy Turnstones
Jamie phoned last night with some great news; he is a Consultant! He has worked so hard for this over so many years and James and I are extremely proud of him. So now as well having the letters MBChB after his name, Jamie also has FRACP (Fellow of the Royal Australasian College of Physicians.)
Today James and I headed through to Inverness. Our main mission was to obtain cement for James to fix the lowest step in the garden. We first went to Simpsons Garden Centre where I had a huge and delicious cheese scone, and James had a sausage roll with salad. Then at James’ suggestion we drove to South Kessock and parked at Merkinch Nature Reserve from which we had great views of the Beauly Firth. The sky was blue but in the west we could see rain showers descending from clouds, backlit by sunshine. We saw a wee crowd of ruddy turnstones (similar to sandpipers) pecking away at the stones in the shallow water. We crossed the small railway line and walked to Clachnaharry Sea Locks, and then past the railway swing bridge, south west along the Caledonian Canal. It was so interesting, with more locks, boats, boatyards, barges, and people walking and cycling. In total we walked about 7 km before returning to Ullapool and the kitties for a cosy evening; we are watching the Last Night of the Proms.
Friday, 12 September 2025
Sore Bones
This evening we watched Mission Impossible: Dead Reckoning Part 1. It was full of action scenes. I couldn’t help noticing that when the main character, played by Tom Cruise, parachuted into a train right through a glass window, not only did he show no distress but he immediately started fighting the baddies. In fact shortly afterwards he climbed up onto the train roof to fight some more, ducking down nimbly when the train went through tunnels. Then the front part of the train fell off a bridge and Tom had to climb upwards through several train carriages that were hanging vertically over a vertiginous drop, supporting the weight of his female colleague with one arm as he pulled her to safety. Needless to say I couldn’t have done any of that. In the unlikely event that I ever parachute through a train window I would be covered in cuts and would probably break several bones. The baddies would have to help me up from the floor, dry my tears and make me a cup of tea!
Thursday, 11 September 2025
Lack of Empathy
Monday, 8 September 2025
Clachtoll Beach and some more music
Sunday, 7 September 2025
A walk, a big fall, a game of chess.
Northern Star Country Music
Thursday, 4 September 2025
Outdoors with the cats
I had some house stuff to do yesterday but I still had plenty of time to sit outside the cottage in the sunshine with the cats. I had a complicated form to fill in on my laptop so I sat on the bench and took my time over it, while also watching boats on the loch and listening to bird song. There is a woodpecker very nearby, but its tapping is a bit hesitant and James thinks that it may be a juvenile. I collected James from Inverness Station at 5 p.m. and we had a good chat in the car on the way home. We picked up delicious pizzas from Oak and Grain and ate them back at the cottage while watching The Great British Sewing Bee.
Today was yet another warm sunny day and James and I sat outside the cottage in the morning making plans. The cats love it when we are outside so they both spent time with us; Tom was rolling around on the patio and Flora climbed onto the garden gate to watch the lane, although she strategically retreated under a bush when some dog walkers passed by. James did some gardening and I did some drawing. It has been a very pleasant and quiet few days, however we are looking forward to seeing our visitors, Heather and Ewan, tomorrow.
Tuesday, 2 September 2025
Coffee at Corrieshalloch Gorge
By this morning it was sunny again and the cats and I spent most of the day outdoors. In the evening I decided to watch the film Good Will Hunting, which I have never watched even though it was made in 1997! It was very good, and Matt Damon and Robin Williams were excellent.
Sunday, 31 August 2025
Tea by the Sea in the sunshine
On Saturday we had a meeting in the village and enjoyed watching a sailing race; the yachts swept by very near the shore; the loch must become deep very quickly there. We had lunch at Tea by the Sea and had a walk around the harbour.
Today is the last day of August and we have had such a tremendous run of good weather. It’s still very warm, almost too hot to sit outdoors in the sunshine. However the rowan berries are very red and there are a few leaves gently drifting down from the trees. It feels as if autumn is just around the corner. James and I have been watching our old favourite The Great British Sewing Bee, it never disappoints. We also watched a series recommended to us by Kerry called Apple Cider Vinegar about Belle Gibson, an influencer in Australia who pretended that she had cancer in order to gain popularity and make money from her website and products. However it wasn’t just an exposé; it was very nuanced and showed different sides of the story.
Friday, 29 August 2025
Dinner at the Shore Restaurant
Then yesterday James and Cornel went for a walk up past the quarry to Loch Achall this morning and then over the hills to the dump road before returning to the village. It was a much less strenuous day for them than yesterday, but still a goodly walk. I walked down to the village and had a cheese scone for lunch in the Cult Café. We all had a relaxing afternoon sitting outside the cottage reading our books, drinking coffee and chatting. Cornel very kindly insisted on taking us out for dinner. We went to the Shore Restaurant at the Arch Inn and the food was absolutely delicious. We then went downstairs to the pub for a drink, and to listen to Rumac who was playing. The room at the front where he was playing was very full, so we sat in the bar area, and the music was loud enough that we could hear it fine from there. Sitting at the same table as us, there was a an Austrian couple in their 30s and we got talking to them. In fact, Cornell was talking to them in fluent German, which I found very impressive! He speaks three languages; German, Afrikaans and English. We had only intended to have a couple of drinks, but we were still there at closing time and James invited Eva and Fridolin back to the cottage to sample some whisky, specifically Raasay whisky. We continued our evening in a convivial manner, and James and the others tasted and discussed whisky among lots of other things. The cats were amazed that we had brought back strangers and stared at them at first and then paid them lots of attention. By the time they left it was late. Very late. It was really very funny because we have been going to bed at a sedate 10 p.m. all week because of all the hill-walking that James and Cornell have been doing, and then yesterday evening we blew it out of the water!
Tuesday, 26 August 2025
Back to Mellon Udrigle
After their big day yesterday, James and Cornel decided a coastal walk would be appropriate to stretch their legs in a more gentle fashion. I suggested that we go to Mellon Udrigle, which we had enjoyed visiting with Kevin. We set up camp on the beach and James and Cornel went off for a walk around the Peninsula, while I read my book. The weather was fine but the breeze was brisk enough to put me off going for a swim. Instead, I paddled up and down the length of the beach, enjoying splashing through the gentle waves. There’s no feeling quite like it. The coastal walk turned out to be boggier and longer than anticipated and after a couple of hours James phoned me to ask if I could pick him and Cornel up from the road end from Slaggan Bay, which would cut about half an hour from the end of their walk. James then made us coffee on the beach before we headed back to Ullapool in glorious late afternoon sunshine.
Monday, 25 August 2025
A Bonnie Day
Saturday, 23 August 2025
Erin and Hughie
Yesterday we visited Alison and Hugh in Nairn for a very special reason; to meet their five month old grandson Hugh, aka Hughie. What a smiley baby he is! Whenever you catch his eye he gives a great big smile - what a friendly wee chap! His smile is very like that of his Grandpa Hugh, and I have always thought that Erin looks very like Alison. We haven’t seen Erin since she was a baby herself and now she is about to turn four years old and is a gorgeous wee girl. She is very clever; she can count to a hundred and can say the whole alphabet as well as writing her name. She is also pleased to be the big sister of Hughie and is very kind with him. Hugh and Lucy have taken to double parenthood like ducks to water, they are so calm and competent, I can remember Hugh so clearly as a wee fellow running about our garden with our boys in the 1990s, not much older than Erin is now! It was very nice to see Lynsey again, she dotes on her wee great-niece and great-nephew. After a delicious lunch we went outside so that Erin could play on her swing and discovered that she is completely fearless, liking to swing very high while trying to burst bubbles that Granny Alison was blowing for her! Having grandchildren looks like great fun.
Tuesday, 19 August 2025
Walking in Strathconon
Monday, 18 August 2025
Appletons meet in Ullapool!
On Saturday evening James, Kevin and I went to see the Lewis McLaughlin Duo at the Ceilidh Place Venue. Lewis is a talented young singer and guitarist, and he was accompanied by Chloe Bryce on the fiddle who was also great. It was an excellent evening and the sky was glowing red on the horizon as we walked home along West Terrace. We also took Kevin for a trip on the Shearwater yesterday morning, where we saw bonxies swooping about, and lots of dolphins leaping in and out of the water. It turns out that tour guide Noel Hawkins is a great friend of James and Cal - so many connections!
Thursday, 14 August 2025
Sounds of Africa
Secondly, we heard a lot of Waka Waka (This Time for Africa) which was the official anthem for the South African World Cup in 2010, written and sung by Shakira. It draws inspiration from traditional African music, and also Colombian rhythms.
However my favourite song of all was Jerusalema, a Zulu song from South Africa. It has such a beautiful tune and is an anthem of hope, unity, and belonging; it is the song that we danced to at Lake Manyara Lodge.
For me these songs and words perfectly reflect the spirit of our trip - full of friendship, adventure and shared memories.
Tuesday, 12 August 2025
Farewell to Tanzania
Sunday, 10 August 2025
Stone Town
We were being collected from Breezes Resort at 1 p.m. yesterday (Saturday) so we had a relaxing breakfast and morning before meeting at Reception. I had actually asked for a late checkout, however when the hotel didn’t have availability we asked Audley Travel if our airport transfer could be a couple of hours early so that we could visit Stone Town. Holly arranged this for us at no extra charge, which was a really nice gesture, and by 2.30 p.m. we had been dropped off and were heading on foot into the narrow alleyways of Stone Town. These twisting lanes were full of colourful shops selling bright fabrics, dresses, paintings, carvings and other souvenirs. There were lots of beautiful carved wood doors with brass studs in them. Ally was our excellent navigator, and guided us first to the Anglican Church. The church and the neighbouring East African Slave Trade Exhibit stand on the grounds of one of the largest and most notorious slave markets in East Africa. This exhibition was created to commemorate the abolition of slavery and preserve the legacy of the individuals who were brought here and sold. Slavery had always been a component of traditional East African society, but during the 19th century the trade grew hugely and was led by Europeans, Indians, Arabs, coastal people and
ethnic leaders of the mainland. A lot of people made a lot of money and Zanzibar was at the centre of operations. Slave trading in East Africa was abolished in 1873, however it persisted in Zanzibar well into the 20th century. We went on a tour which included the cramped cells where the slaves were kept before market, and a group of statues of chained slaves outside. The exhibition was very interesting and showed us that as well as the slave traders there were also good people who tried very hard to abolish slavery. Our very own local boy from Blantyre, David Livingstone, was one of the good guys. He spent most of his life campaigning to end the slave trade as well as exploring Africa. It was a sobering visit but I felt glad to have paid my respects to the men, women and children who were sold into slavery.
Ally then expertly led us onwards to the Old Fort which was full of little stalls selling food and drink. We walked right through the courtyard and some attractive gardens to the harbour and had lunch in the lovely Cape Town Fish Restaurant. It is an attractive and busy harbour with lots of little fishing boats as well as ferries. On the way back to the minibus we stopped briefly at the house where Freddie Mercury lived until he moved to the UK when he was about 20.
And so our journey home began. It was a long haul, mainly because we had factored in significant gaps between our flights in case of delay. We said good bye to Jamie and Kerry in Addis Ababa when they headed to Dubai and thence to Bali. We said goodbye to Ally and Cat at London Gatwick, from where they had a short journey home. Davie, Chanel, James and I hung around at Gatwick rather tired, until it was time for the final leg of our journey to Glasgow. We finally arrived home at about 4.30 p.m. Tom and Flora were waiting for us and it was so very good to see them.
Friday, 8 August 2025
Swimming in the Indian Ocean
As it was our last night, complimentary drinks and snacks were delivered to our room, where we all gathered before heading up to cocktail hour at reception. Dinner was delicious and we had a nightcap in the bar, discussing our holiday experiences. It was such a lovely evening and I will miss our group of eight intrepid explorers.
Thursday, 7 August 2025
Frangipani Spa and Tides Restaurant
The divers returned happily; they had enjoyed a great morning and have all passed their PADI. We had a delightful lunch together and a relaxing afternoon. The evening was very special indeed. The young folk had clubbed together to treat James and I to a dinner for two at Tides Restaurant for our Ruby Anniversary. This is a little restaurant for two people right on the beach. It’s a carved wooden room with curtains that blow in the breeze and with doors that open out onto a tiny terrace overlooking the sea, where we had pre dinner drinks. Back inside the tiny room we had an amazing four course dinner. James had a huge lobster and I had paneer masala; there is definitely a spicy vibe about the food here. One stand out course for me was hibiscus sorbet, which is both sweet and tart, which I will attempt to reproduce at home. After we had eaten our fill and more, our waitress Hamid presented us with a big chocolate cake decorated “Happy Anniversary!” We took it to the main restaurant with us and shared it over drinks with the young folks, who had just enjoyed a slap up Gala dinner. The evening was crowned by Jamie asking Ally and Davie to be his joint Best Men at his and Kerry’s wedding, to which they both agreed with alacrity. I was so very happy.
Wednesday, 6 August 2025
Scuba Diving
Later in the afternoon we all went to the bar for pre dinner drinks, and a convivial evening followed, listening to the music from a very good Zanzibar group and having a laugh.
This morning we had an early breakfast because the divers were heading out to sea. Kerry and I lingered on pleasantly for another coffee, then went to the sun loungers near the beach where we read our books and chatted. Our divers arrived back at lunch time rather tired but happy that they had all successfully used their skills to scuba dive in the sea. Lunch was lovely, and then I went for a walk along the beach at high tide which was spectacular; the waves reached nearly to the low wall beneath the hotel. Drinks by the pool were followed by champagne in our bedroom and then dinner, which was Swahili night with a delicious and unusual buffet.
Monday, 4 August 2025
Travelling to Zanzibar
We left the Nyikani Migration Camp just after 7 a.m. The morning light was beautiful and lit up the long grass.
We saw a white cuckoo sitting on a tree, plenty of zebras, and wildebeest in herds as far as the eye could see. Charles and Naftal had brought us to the air strip very early but it was quite cool with lots of shade. We said our goodbyes to them rather sadly, they have been such excellent drivers and guides to us. Ours was one of the larger planes that we saw arriving, with room for about 40 passengers in 10 rows: we watched our luggage being loaded and soon we were on board. Kerry was asked by the stewardess to help her to close the door! We made a stop at Central Serengeti airport to pick up more passengers; we could see giraffes in the distance. And then we left the Serengeti and our plane flew us south east to Zanzibar. The final leg of our journey took just over an hour by minibus to Breezes Beach Resort and Spa, which is everything we had hoped for. the attractive white-washed buildings have high Makuti roofs, made with hand woven coconut palm leaves. The resort is right beside the sea with a swimming pool and a diving centre. It’s great that the pool is very close to the beach, so you can go to either pool or beach without having to move to a different seating area. We soon settled into our beautiful rooms and then headed to the bar for a snack lunch and later to the pool for a swim and drinks. Dinner was absolutely splendid; it was Spice Night and both the variety and quality of dishes were excellent, with lots of vegetarian options. We had a fun evening with lots of laughs, and went down to the beach to look at the stars before bed time.
Sunday, 3 August 2025
The Mara River
Lunch was excellent and after a chat we all went back to our nice cool rooms for an afternoon rest.
We regrouped at 4 p.m. and headed back to the river. Alas the wildebeest had decided that today was not an auspicious time to cross, and in fact were heading away from the river for the evening. Naftal told us that while we had been able to go back to camp for a break, some jeeps had waited in vain at the river all day, because they had travelled from much further away. I’m glad that our camp was only about an hour’s drive from the river. So after a while we headed back to camp, seeing lots of wildlife on the way, such as brown snake eagles, zebras, giraffes, and really huge herds of wildebeest. As James pointed out, although we didn’t see the wildebeest actually cross the Mara River, we certainly have seen the Great Migration. After refreshing bucket showers and a rather lovely dinner, we all sat around the camp fire and chatted and looked at the moon and the stars of the southern hemisphere. A great evening in great company. And now a hyena is yipping gently outside our tent!
Saturday, 2 August 2025
Northern Serengeti
Breakfast was lovely and then we chose the ingredients for our packed lunches. We set off in the landcruisers, this time we decided to have girl / boy landrovers and I enjoyed a day in the delightful company of Kerry, Cat and Chanel. Among many other birds and animals we saw a Volder decken? Hornbill eating a snake! Also water buffalo, impala, lots of zebras, a spotted hyena, and a pride of lions - two male and three female, running along. So many wild animals right beside us! Fantastic. Perhaps the most exciting moment was coming across two male lions right beside the track, sheltering from the hot sun in the shade of a tree. They were not at all bothered by our presence and sat yawning quite happily.
We had to queue for petrol at a filling station at the edge of the national park on the way north, it’s the only filling station in the area and Charles told us that it was very expensive. After a long drive (we left the Park and then went in by another entrance further north) we arrived at our final and most remote camp, Nyikani Migration Camp. This camp is a temporary one which is moved twice a year.
The bedrooms are again little huts, each with an en-suite toilet and a bucket shower.
The bucket showers are amazing. They are filled up on request by members of staff and then you pull on a rope and 20 litres of lukewarm water descend upon you through a shower head. It’s so refreshing! We all had showers because we were quite dusty and hot, then met up for drinks and dinner in the main building, followed by more drinks and chat. At one point I needed to visit the toilet just beside the main building. They use a novel way of indicating that the toilet is occupied. There is a warrior’s spear in standing upright in a little hole to the right of the door, and when you go in you move it to another little hole in the middle of the doorway! Back at our tent James used safety pins borrowed from Jamie to hang our mosquito net from the seam in the ceiling. We had been advised to bring a mosquito net for this camp but in fact the tent already has fine mesh windows and inner nets which cover all of the walls and windows. But we decided to use our mosquito net anyway.
Friday, 1 August 2025
Into the Serengeti
Charles showed us a tree called a theorisation? which is like a thick acacia.
At David’s request we added in a stop at Olduvai Gorge more info. We had a delightfully cool lunch sitting in the courtyard overlooking the valley.
We entered Serengeti National Park and queued to go through the gates after Charles and Naftal did the paperwork. Serengeti means endless plain.
Charles warned us that we were about to have an “African massage” which was a very bumpy five hour game drive on very dusty and uneven roads. Som if the potholes cause by flooding during the wet season were so huge that I thought that they would tip the landcruiser over!
Here goes with another list:
Speckled fronted weavers, lapis faced vulture, Hildebrand starling, Southern ground hornbill. Alasdair is extremely interested in the birds that we are seeing and is learning to recognise them very well.
We also saw a cheetah, a jackal, a cervo cat, a jackal, a topi, a Holder? (heart shaped horns), a hyena, and a couple of extremely cute dikdiks.
More impala, elephants and finally a leopard emerging from a bush.
At about 6.30 p.m. we arrived at Lahia Tented Lodge. This accommodation was incredible. We all had our separate double rooms but this time they have tent walls under high wooden ceilings, and the curtains move gently in the breeze! The main room of the lodge has a magnificent vaulted ceiling over a huge lounge and dining space. Outside is a swimming pool overlooking ——
On the tops of hills around us controlled fires glowed in the darkness, and the warm night was filled with the sound of crickets. We had a convivial dinner until it was time for us to be escorted back to our rooms, to protect us from wild animals. After seeing the cheetah and leopard today I was very happy to be escorted!
Thursday, 31 July 2025
Ngorongoro Crater
Zebras, wildebeest, grand gazelles, Thomson gazelles, lions in the distance, vultures, guinea fowl, lots of warthogs, buffalo, ostrich, and hippopotami.
Flamingos in the lake, red billed teals, Cory bustards (the heaviest birds of flight), black crowned cranes (also known as the Uganda bird because it is on the Uganda flag.) Lilac breasted rollers, buzzards, speckled mouse birds, ibis, heron, secretary birds - so named because when secretary birds kill snakes they use their feet like typing. They are also familiar to us Andersons from the film Bedknobs and Broomsticks! A vulture at the top of a tree with two chicks in its nest.
Rhinoceros, and a female lion right beside the jeep!
We saw lots of trees too, the ubiquitous acacia trees, a strangling fig, baobob trees.
These lists are by no means comprehensive; there was so much that I couldn’t possibly jot it all down. The Ngorongoro Crater is an amazing place.
Back to the Mandhari Lodge hotel and we went for a swim in the pool and then sat around the fire pit before a tasty dinner. Then in came a group of the staff, dancing and singing. Last night Cat and Chanel got up to dance with them, and this evening Chanel pulled me and Davie up to dance too. It was great fun!
Wednesday, 30 July 2025
Safari!
Naftal bought red bananas from a roadside vendor; they are delicious, small and very sweet. We entered Lake Manyara National Park, which is fed by springs from the Rift Valley.
We saw Baobob trees with their very thick trunks and distinctive shape. Also lots of baboons. Monkeys too, but mainly baboons.
Also impalas, waterbucks, and a bushbuck. We saw a group of elephants; two adults and two babies, which were so sweet. There are so many birds too, many of them very brightly coloured.
We were given a hearty picnic lunch at table overlooking Lake Manyara; it was cool under the trees.
We saw elephants, just strolling along through the trees. And we saw a warthog (Pumba!) just before we left the park.
Our hotel, the Mandhari Lodge, is very attractive; it consists of a main building and restaurant and a scattering of villas. It’s a long drive up a dusty track, but you are rewarded with stunning views over the green valley below and Lake Manyara. We all met up at the pool, and swam and chatted and had drinks.
Dinner was excellent and then we had to be escorted to and from our rooms after dark because of the danger of leopards and hyenas. As I write this I can hear what I think is a hyena whining and snuffling outside our wee villa.
Tuesday, 29 July 2025
A Long Journey to Arusha
Ally and Cat arrived and met us in the Departures Lounge; in their two days in Ethiopia they have had some adventures already, including sightseeing, retrieving lost luggage, and having to hand over their binoculars to security. This last was because of the current military situation in Ethiopia; it is deemed a threat to bring binoculars into the country!
We caught a mid morning flight to Kilimanjaro Airport in Tanzania, which was pleasant and uneventful, it was less than two hours. However we were delayed on arrival at Kilimanjaro Airport. James’ visa never came through so he had to stand in a long and slow moving queue to get one before following the rest of us through security. And David’s case was missing; he has a luggage tag in the case which showed us that the case is still un Addis Ababa airport. So he had to fill out a form and hopefully the airline will send the case after us.
Our driver was waiting for us and we set off on the couple of hours drive to Arusha, where we would be spending our first night of the holiday. Well, our first proper night, in a bed rather than an aeroplane seat! Our driver, Alex, took us for an impromptu tour around the centre of Arusha, a bustling city with a market, lots of shops, and street stalls. It is allegedly the centre of Africa, half way between Cairo and the Cape of Good Hope, and has a little clock tower to prove it.
There were people with sewing machines repairing clothes in the pavement, there were people riding incredibly overladen bicycles, a woman carrying cassava in a basket on her head, children on their way home from school. On the outskirts of town we arrived at Katambunga House, and went for a swim in the pool before dinner. As well as being very pretty, the pool area has an incredible view of Mount Meru, Tanzania’s second tallest mountain, in the distance.
Jamie and Kerry arrived from the airport at about 9.30 pm and of course got a huge welcome from the rest of us. The team of eight adventurers are now assembled and ready to go on Safari!
The young folk gave us a big surprise after dinner. Cat had organised and ordered eight t shirts, printed with a photo of James and me on the front to celebrate our 40th Wedding Anniversary. On the back is the itinerary of our holiday in the style of a band’s tour t shirt. It is absolutely perfect and so thoughtful. We had drinks in the bar before bedtime and now I’m lying in bed exhausted but happy with strange African bird and insect noises outside.