Three churches in Rome

This morning we left the ship and were impressed with the efficiency of our transport to the airport. It was about an hour’s journey from Civitavecchia to Fiumcino Airport. We had about eight hours before our flight would depart so we checked our suitcases into the left luggage office and caught a train into Rome. 

Unlike yesterday, the weather was glorious. We decided to revisit a few of our old favourites, and started with coffee and pastries at Tre Scalini in Piazza Navona. It was delightful. We then popped into Sant’Agnese in Agone, just because it was right there. It was beautifully decorated and the cupola had a gorgeous fresco of Saint Agnes ascending to heaven, after her brutal murder at such a young age. Back outside in the sunshine we started strolling in the general direction of the Trevi Fountain. 

As we passed the church of San Luigi dei Francesi we noticed that it seemed very popular, with lots of people going in and out, so we looked at the information board outside which mentioned that it contained three paintings by Caravaggio. We needed no further persuasion to go inside; Caravaggio is one of our friend Ewan’s favourite artists and due to his enthusiasm we have also become admirers of this turbulent genius who died in 1610 aged only 38. We soon found the three paintings, about the life of St Matthew; the Calling, the Inspiration and the Martyrdom. The most striking was the Martyrdom; the expressions on the faces during the attack on St Matthew were so vivid, and the shafts of light contrasted with dark shadows. 

Back out on our walk, we didn’t intend to visit yet another church but we again noticed large numbers of tourists going into the Chiesa di Sant'lgnazio di Loyola in Campo Marzio. It’s another sumptuously decorated church, notable for its trompe l’oeil fresco by Andrea Pozzo on the ceiling, of St Ignatius (and lots of angels) floating upwards into the blue sky towards heaven, it’s very effective. 

We resumed our walk through an increasingly busy Rome, and we didn’t linger at the Trevi Fountain because it was hooching, but I did manage to throw a coin in the fountain as I always do, to ensure my return! We had a late lunch in a wee restaurant near the Spanish Steps, before taking a taxi back to the station and heading for the airport. What a pleasant end to a great holiday.