Tuesday, 1 May 2018

Bohemia(n) Rhapsody

I was so exhausted after our jam-packed day on Sunday (and my caffeine crazed lack of sleep the night before) that I fell unconscious as soon as my head hit the pillow. James informed me that the party people of Prague sang and shouted nearby until the wee small hours, but I was completely oblivious and woke refreshed on Monday morning and raring to go.
It was another very warm, sunny day. We went back to Obecní Dūm again for breakfast because we liked it so much yesterday, and then we crossed the river again and this time took the funicular railway up to the top of Petrin Park. We strolled round the side of the hill along a tree lined path with blossom drifting through the air, and down a lovely cobbled street to the square in front of the castle. However the length of the queue was rather daunting and we decided that we will just have to come back to Prague another time to visit it. We did see the changing of the guard, complete with a tiny marching band who wore smart red jackets with shiny brass buttons.So on we sauntered, down the hill into Malá Strana, in search of a restaurant which had been recommended to us by Heather and Ewan. We invariably enjoy their recommendations! We were armed with a description of its location but no name, so we had to make our best guess at which of the several riverside restaurants it might be. The one we plumped for, which was called Kampa Park, certainly didn’t disappoint! Right on the side of the river, close to the Charles Bridge, we just sat there amazed and drinking in the view. The wide majestic river, the pleasure boats, the Old Town across the river, the horse chestnut trees, the statues and people on the Charles Bridge, I can see it all still in my mind’s eye. The air was so thick with pollen that it clung to our watches and cutlery. The food was absolutely delicious although James won the day with a very light and flavoursome pea soup - I was quite jealous of his choice even though my own food was excellent. As we relaxed and chatted James spotted a boat named “Bohemia Rhapsody” - he had been wondering when we might come across a reference to that well known song and was delighted even though it lacked an “n”. Eventually we had to move on with our day but it was a magical interlude. After seeing his Art Nouveau designs at Obecní Dūm, I was keen to see the Mucha exhibition at the Municipal Gallery in the Old Town Square so that was our next stop. It was mercifully cool in the museum and I really liked his artworks. My favourite is the one with the girl whose arms are full of fruit (appropriately entitled “Fruit”!) which is used as the cover of the menu at Obecní Dūm.We then strolled in the direction of Wenceslas Square where we paid our respects to the statue of the man himself, who was sitting resplendent astride a horse rather than treading boldly through deep snow. I must say that I was not bowled over by Wenceslas Square; it was more like a wide road than a Square and was lined with chain stores- it just didn’t have the charming atmosphere of the Old Town to which we soon returned. By this time it was late afternoon and time for cool drinks in one of the many wee cafés in the fairytale alleyways of the Old Town. I wasn’t ready to leave Prague, but after one last wander around the market it was time to head back to the airport. Goodbye Prague, I hope to come back again! 

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