Top Secret

Davie and I went to the dress rehearsal for the Commonwealth Games on this lovely sunny evening. We walked up to Parkhead from Dalmarnock Station along with thousands of other people; the atmosphere was tremendous. These were extra tickets that Davie was given for being a volunteer at the Games, aka a Clydesider. However we were asked by the organisers not to give away the secrets and surprises of the evening. So I had better make something up - how about John Barrowman being driven around in an open topped bus, singing about Scotland while dressed in bright purple tartan and accompanied by giant dancing Tunnocks Tea Cakes. Is that too unbelievable?

No welcome home

We all crammed into the car to set off on the journey home today. I felt really sad to be leaving Lochinver and would definitely like to book the cottage at the pottery again. David Grant (the owner) came to say goodbye; he was telling us about the celebrations that are taking place next week to celebrate 40 years of Highland Stoneware - the guest of honour will be Princess Anne. The weather was fine and sunny, with no sign of the storms that were forecast. After a couple of hours (I agree with Ewan that it is a long journey home from Lochinver!) we all stopped for lunch in Inverness and Ally and Cat then went off to catch a bus to Invergarry. They still have another week of their holiday ahead of them with Gerry and Christine who have rented a cottage in Glenelg. This created considerably more room in the car, not because the very slim Ally and Cat take up much room, but because they took their big rucksacks with them, which they had been carrying on their laps because the boot was full.
The remaining three of us still had three hours of travel ahead of us, and by Perth it was grey and raining, although no thunder and lightning I'm glad to say.
But when we got home there was no Jack to greet us. The cat flap in the door is still, his bowls and rugs lie neglected, the whole house feels lonely without him. He will never walk casually round the side of the house again as we arrive home and roll around on the slabs so that we can pat him, or come running down the stairs when we open the front door. How can such a small cat leave such a big empty space?

Breabag

What an amazing day we have had today. James wanted to bag a Corbett and chose Breabag near Inchnadamph. Meanwhile Alasdair was keen to climb two Munros; Conival and Ben More Assynt, and persuaded Davie to accompany him. This tied in nicely with our plans because the start and end points of both expeditions are near to each other. Cat came with James and me because she has had a sore knee since last week and she didn't want to overstrain it.
The route to Breabag goes past the Bone Caves of Inchnadamph, which we have visited in winter by trudging over snow and ice. The valley looked very different today in the height of summer; green and full of birdsong, with underground springs bubbling up into rock pools. I felt a bit hot and bothered so after about half an hour I asked James and Cat to go on without me because I didn't want to hold them up. But after a rest I felt that I had given up too soon and decided to continue my walk and I met up with them at the ridge. I found the ascent to be quite rough; first across boggy moorland and then up through heather and boulders. I decided to go on to the summit (James and Cat had already been there) and when I got there it was so windy that I was almost blown off my feet, but I was rewarded with panoramic views for miles around. On the slopes near the summit there were several groups of deer watching me, they were lovely but timid and cantered off as I approached.
The trouble started when I set off back down the hill. There was no path at all, and it took ages to pick my way down a steep quartzite boulder field. The rocks were in no way attached to the hill and it felt very precarious as I slipped and slid. There were large slabs of rock too which provided some relief but they were very steep. Even when I got low enough to walk on patches of heather I could feel the rocks scraping together underneath, like the edges of a broken bone grinding against each other (and yes I do know what that feels like!) I felt as if I would never get down! I still really enjoyed the walk though, and doing two Corbetts in two days is amazing for me. Today was another 700 metres of ascent and about 5 hours of walking.
I got back to the Inchnadamph Hotel only ten minutes after James and Cat, whose descent via another hill was equally arduous, and Ally and Davie arrived soon after, tired but happy. We had a drink as we compared our adventures.
I had an embarrassing incident where an insect crawled down my t shirt. I set off for the ladies toilets to shake it out but since the hotel was so quiet I just pulled off my top in the foyer. I don't know what possessed me because immediately two male guests walked in through the door. I dived behind the reception desk but this must have looked strange because they came straight over and looked over the desk where I was sitting wearing my bra and trying to put my top back on. Luckily I will never see them again.
Anyway after a quick shower we went for our last night dinner to the Riverside Bistro where we had a hearty dinner and talked about our holiday. It has been great.

Ridge walking on Quinag

Heather and Ewan have now left Lochinver, and the rest of us set off to climb Quinag today, looking forward to a sunny day promised by the weather forecast. As we approached the hill however, we saw that it was wreathed in low clouds, and wondered if we would see any view at all. As we made our way up the large stone slabs on the slopes the cloud lifted above us and by the time we reached the first summit the day was fine and sunny, and we had stunning views all around us of the beautiful mountains and lochs of Assynt. My favourite part of the day was walking along the narrow ridges between the tops of the hills before Cat and I descended from the bealach and the boys went on to the other two main summits. I gave Cat (and myself) a fright by stumbling and falling on a narrow part of the ridge and for a moment I really thought that I was going to tumble for hundreds of feet! I landed on my bottom on a rock just below the ridge but then the momentum made me continue falling downwards onto the next rock! I think that Cat was quite alarmed and I had to take a minute to recover! It was a good four and a half hour walk with about 700 metres of ascent, which is a lot for me.
On returning to the car, Cat and I nipped off to the Kylescu Hotel where we sat outside and had a refreshing drink while watching huge bags of mussels being unloaded from a boat onto the jetty. It was really hot and sunny and we had a nice chat. Later we collected our sweaty boys and the five of us had a delicious tea back at the Kylescu Hotel.

Sandwood Bay, Sunshine and Seafood

We went to Sandwood Bay today with Heather and Ewan, while Ally, Cat and Davie walked to Achmelvich. It was a fine and breezy day; the hour and a half walk from Oldshoremore to the beach at Sandwood was very pleasant. As we arrived at the beach a huge rain cloud rolled over us and it looked as if we were about to get soaked. We found shelter behind a sand dune and James started brewing up some coffee, and by the time the kettle boiled the cloud had passed over us, the sky was blue and it remained sunny for the rest of the day! 

How lovely it was to be back at Sandwood Bay with Heather and Ewan; they were with us on our very first visit there eight years ago with all five children. There was a smart maroon coloured helicopter on the beach and we speculated as to the (sole) passenger's reason for being there - sight-seeing probably, but why by helicopter, and where else would he visit after the helicopter pilot whisked him off a short while later? Tempting though the thought was of being transported with such ease to the remote beach, I felt as if being "beamed in" like that would make it feel a bit less special - but maybe I am being too puritanical - arriving by helicopter would be very exciting! After some relaxing and a walk up and down the beach to re-visit our camping spot from two years ago, we set off back to the car; my legs were tired so it seemed a bit longer on the way back!

We called in at the Kylescu Hotel on our way back to Lochinver, which we stayed at two years ago and really liked. It was too late for afternoon tea so James had the inspired idea of having a drink followed by an early dinner! A quick phone call ensured that the "young ones" would arrange their own dinner (they went to the Caberfeidh). The food at the Kylescu was absolutely delicious and the main course that Heather and I chose was amazing; roasted cod with kale and ricotta cannelloni. The flavours worked so well together, and we both loved it. 

And then we headed back to the cottage where we chatted and Ally, Cat and Davie played a spirited game of Maltese dominoes. Another great day - and thanks to the surroundings and the company I felt so relaxed. 

A Jolly Pollaidh Day

Today was my second ascent of Stac Pollaidh and I felt much fitter than during my first ascent last September. I was still the last of our group, but that was ok because they are a very fit bunch and I wasn't far behind. Ewan spotted the novelist Ian McEwan walking with friends; he recognised him and also heard his friends talking to him about being a novelist. He even asked James for advice about going up to the scrambly summit of the hill! Heather took a surreptitious photo but we didn't tell him that we were fans. Very exciting! The weather was grey but dry and the walk was very enjoyable. 

We then had coffee and scones at the Summer Isles Hotel Bar before a scenic drive back to Lochinver with a stop at the Achins bookshop on the way.

Later we walked down to the Peet Restaurant at the harbour in beautiful sunshine for a lovely dinner. However the weather turned and we had to walk back up the hill in pouring rain! A convivial evening ensued; we all chatted and took turns playing our favourite music to each other. A really good day.

Lochinver - Saturday and Sunday

James, Davie and I arrived in Lochinver on Saturday after an early start and a long journey by ferry and car, to find that our cottage for this week is really lovely; beautifully decorated and spacious with views over Lochinver to Suilven. It's right beside Highland Stoneware at the top end of the village, and in fact belongs to the owner of the pottery.

On Sunday we were pleased to welcome Ally, Cat, Heather and Ewan to join us on our holiday. We went on an excellent 10.7 km undulating walk on sunny Sunday afternoon from Lochinver to the beach at Achmelvich and back. It had beautiful views and was mostly off road; I felt we had truly earned our hearty dinner at the Riverside Café later before relaxing and watching the World Cup final back at the cottage. Although sunset on Suilven did keep distracting us from the game!